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Identifying Contender Frames (with pictures)
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=18559&th=5094#msg_18559
Here's a very early add I found in some magazine published in 1968.
Notice the scrolling on the frame.
This again shows the frame with scrolling. You can also tell it's an early frame because the hammer doesn't have a safety or switch, and the trigger guard is hinged at the front.
TC Then decided they could save some money if they reduced the amount of engraving on the frame, so out went a bit of the scroll work from above the cougar. The hammer in this picture has the cross-bolt safety.
Not sure when they did this, but I've seen about 5 of these gold washed frames. It was definitely a TC Factory process though. This one's kind of rough, but they are sharp looking when you have it in hand.
Edit:This info is an error, Factory never did this, It was owners using a Brownell's kit.
Probably responding to Customer comments, someone figured out that you could increase the leverage and decrease the effort of opening a frame by moving the hinge in the trigger guard to the middle. These are called "Easy Open" frames.
Then TC came out with Armour Alloy II. A coating they plated onto both frames and barrels. This coating made things a little bigger, so you might have problems putting an AA2 barrel on a blued frame or a blued barrel on an AA2 frame. Just something to be aware of.
Edit: Hinge pins are smaller on a AA, larger on standard blue and SS
TC then came out with what's called the "Angry Cougar" by some, in both stainless and blue.
And of course, now you have the G2, which comes in stainless or Blue
]]>Crubear2013-01-21T21:17:40-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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]]>Crubear2013-01-21T21:21:26-00:00Re: Contender Frames
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=18570&th=5094#msg_18570
groat2013-01-22T00:48:11-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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]]>Crubear2013-01-22T02:44:04-00:00Re: Contender Frames
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=18602&th=5094#msg_18602
AA2's being desireable is debatable; the caliber selections were very limited, and T'C's own literature mentions that Blued and AA2 frames and barrels are NOT interchangeable. AA2 frames are preceeded with "A" on their serial numbers, the right side of their barrel lugs are stamped "AA" as well.
The easy-open feature came into play during the cross-bolt safety period. By april 1, 1984 all frames that left the factory were both lever selector and easy open. They did offer owners of older frames to send their guns in to get the easy open trigger guards, the newer hammer being "optional" along with it. Thus you can find some frames with the front trigger group hole still in them, the owners merely opted for the conversion.
Other notable frames:
1. For the first month or so, frames had no etching, and thus called "flat-sides". Serial numbers started with "1000". Flat sides can generally be found interspersed into the 1700 range.
2. Eagle frames: 50-60 frames were selected (virtually at random) for this trial. Porosity was prone in the center where the casting sprue was, resulting in unacceptable reject rates. Others rejected because etching the eagle resulted in rejects as well (probably too intricate). Interspersed 1300-1800's
3. IHMSA: 1979-80. 400 flatsides with 14" barrels. Serials starting with IHMSA 001. First 25 in .357 mag were silver inlaid with the IHMSA logo. Last 25 no inlays. All IHMSA 14's had the "williams" type rear sights. Second was 45 Colt, another set numbering 50. Next was 50 .44 Mag. Next was 50 30 Herrett. Next was .256 Win, 100 made for this one. Last was 100 7TCU.
1971: NRA commemorative. Not released, NRA chose Colt and Daisy for official commemoratives.
1989: 500 Steve Herrett Comm. SH preceeded serial numbered cased sets. Engraved in Japan. Shipped with a 10" 30 Herrett engraved barrel, and dummy 30 and 357 Herrett shells. Frame engraved with Herrett's likeness on left side and award on reverse side.
1992: T/C 25th anniversary commemorative.
1986+: TCA collector's association special runs.
Jim]]>jamesgammel2013-01-22T17:48:21-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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TC put a tiny little screw inside the frame that you can use to take up trigger creep. With a little work and patience you could get an outstanding trigger by setting this screw and the over travel. I don't know if the earliest frames had this, but the later cougar frames do. If someone has an Angry Cougar (they're still ugly IMHO)can let us know.
I don't believe that the G2 does either.
Edit: All G-1's Have trigger creep adjustment; however none are within the "frame". The first two versions of trigger guards had them with a tiny set screw in the top middle left on the bottom of the trigger guard part that sits basicly flush with the bottom of the frame. You have to remove the trigger guard to gain access to the screw. The Easy open made it easier, it's set screw is accessed with the trigger guard still pinned to the frame in "ready" use mode. The screw is located at the top front of the trigger. The second and third(last) frame versions all had overtravel adjustment. The screw for this is in a small "boss" behind the trigger and is accessed from between the trigger guard's rear and grip. Watch out while adjusting the overtravel, the screw is pretty short and you may screw it in until it falls out. It really should have been longer, and you can find longer replacements. Don't go over 1/4" total length longer ones to replace it with, could end up with a knuckle scraper.]]>Crubear2013-07-25T00:56:38-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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http://www.handgunhunt.com/tech/t1/index.html]]>Crubear2013-09-20T13:17:05-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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Dima2013-10-29T19:10:41-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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If you've got several barrels, give this a try and let us know how it turns out. Find a barrel that's very hard to open and a barrel that's easy (or easier) to open and switch the barrel lugs. Did they switch in difficulty? It appears that lug difference have an impact as well.]]>Crubear2013-10-29T19:32:21-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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]]>Dima2013-10-31T18:11:38-00:00Re: Contender Frames
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=25230&th=5094#msg_25230
The angry cougar stainless frame does have both the creep and overtravel screws. Other than material and etching design it's virtually identical to the regular easy open frame. Serial #'s prefixed with "S"
Jim]]>jamesgammel2013-10-31T21:27:11-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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welderboy2502014-04-03T01:25:56-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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Up until this time, interlocks had a groove as a pivot, around the shank of the retainer screw. My SS had a cylindrical boss , like an attached tube where that groove was, and the retaining screw went up thru the center of it in a cylindrical hole. Logicly that part change was simultaneous with the etching change (model change), if you needed a replacement interlock safety, rather than looking up by serial number, just saying I have an angry cougar frame would tell them which interlock saftey version you needed. Whether it was a blued or SS frame wouldn't have mattered. That was the only difference we could find in regards to internal frame parts. SS frames did get SS pins everywhere, hinge, hammer, trigger, etc. Blued kept using the old blued steel pins as they always had. The trigger guard pivot pin did get one minor addition, a shallow "groove" in the center. Whether that slight groove made a difference or mattered is another matter.
Due to the fire in 1997, the portion of the shop where blued frames were etched and blued was heavily damages. The portion of the shop where The stainless frames were handled and process escaped the severity. Post fire when they restarted operations they started etching the angry cat motif on blue frames as well.
Jim]]>jamesgammel2014-04-03T03:13:28-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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Another early add
If you wondered where the Angry Cougar engraving (as opposed to etched) came from? This was a grip cap on one of the MANY grip styles TC came out with.
TC would sell un-etched frames, called flat-sides
Close-up of the cross-pin safety. They have a bad habit of becoming difficult/impossible to set too.
Early frame (front opening) with it's guts hanging out
Very early forend. These snapped onto a ball headed screw and were quickly changed to the screw on kind. The recoil quickly grew to the point that firing the pistol and reloading required the shooter to pick up and snap the forend back on. The new add at the top of this post shows you what the screws looked like.
And finally, when TC released the Carbine conversion package they also sold carbine barrels. These are pictures of the box ends.
]]>Crubear2014-11-25T18:29:46-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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You walk into a store and they show you an early TC Contender. It's pretty, but you've seen that beforel
and then you flip it over....
Very early on TC found that they were having to reject too many frames for imperfections in the casting process. The solution they went with was to etch (acid burn) in a design that would cover the minor cosmetic imperfections. They had two designs made, one the cougar and the other the eagle. You know which one won. Some one else will tell you that there were very few of these made (40?). Way back in the 80's there were unsubstantiated rumors (wishful thinking?) that there was at least one frame with eagles on both sides.
Either way, you will pay handsomely to add one of these to your collection.
It's worth it
]]>Crubear2015-01-20T01:54:27-00:00Re: Contender Frames
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=41967&th=5094#msg_41967
They also sold some of the stainless ones with no engraving through Fox Ridge Outfitters.
Serial Number: S300xx
Serial Number: S392xx
Fox Ridge Outfitters Serial Number: FRO S12xx
]]>jd_elam2016-10-20T18:54:55-00:00Re: Contender Frames
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=41971&th=5094#msg_41971
As far as I know the etched frames were Armour Alloy II. The etching was done to hide the minor imperfections casting always seemed to produce, thus making more frames fit for sale cosmetically. The engraving may have started after the fire, but all I heard was that it was cheaper and faster to engrave than etch.
Flatsides were an option for as long as I was aware of them at FRO - TC's Custom Shop. I always liked the looks of the flatside too]]>Crubear2016-10-20T20:09:36-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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I have not seen too many of the FRO flatside frames.]]>jd_elam2016-10-21T01:21:47-00:00Re: Contender Frames
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Crubear2016-10-24T18:34:13-00:00Re: Identifying Contender Frames (with pictures)
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=42030&th=5094#msg_42030
nhmikel2016-11-02T01:13:35-00:00Re: Identifying Contender Frames (with pictures)
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=43262&th=5094#msg_43262
I will be adjusting somethings because of site limits, and others because it will work better. Some posts will be dropped and/or incorporated, but I will attribute the original poster. Thanks for your patience.]]>Crubear2017-08-21T15:03:09-00:00Re: Identifying Contender Frames (with pictures)
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=43263&th=5094#msg_43263
Here's a very early add I found in some magazine published in 1968.
Notice the scrolling on the frame.
This again shows the frame with scrolling. You can also tell it's an early frame because the hammer doesn't have a safety or switch, and the trigger guard is hinged at the front.
TC Then decided they could save some money if they reduced the amount of etching on the frame, so out went a bit of the scroll work from above the cougar. The hammer in this picture has the cross-bolt safety.
(per James Gammel) You could buy a kit from Brownells that would let you gold wash a frame (see the add above as well). I've seen around 5 and have always liked it. So keep in mind that it's an owner applied option, not a factory option.
Probably responding to Customer comments, someone figured out that you could increase the leverage and decrease the effort of opening a frame by moving the hinge in the trigger guard to the middle. These are called "Easy Open" frames. The hammer on this one has the top mounted selector switch.]]>Crubear2017-08-21T15:06:39-00:00Re: Identifying Contender Frames (with pictures)
http://www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.phpindex.php?t=rview&goto=43264&th=5094#msg_43264
When T/C first started production they had intended on having nothing on the side of the frame (called a flat side). Bluing a frame is an exacting process and any variation of the steel or the process can result in a color other than the deep blue/black - it's called plum, and this shows it well. I'm most familiar with it on the trigger guard and the hammer. It is normal, but some people are particular. (I've had someone refuse a Contender because they didn't like the plum on the trigger guard. Include pictures if yours has this so there's no question).
Frames though, are cast, and all castings weren't perfect. So there were a lot of culls because of small imperfections in the sides of the frame. T/C decided that instead of tossing perfectly good frames they'd increase inspection passes by doing a bit of acid etching (which James Gammel correctly pointed out is not engraving). There were two designs up for consideration, the Crouching Cougar that you're familiar with, and this.
The Eagle frame is very rare, but you will see them on gun auction sites. These frames have the panther on one side and the eagle on the other. There are/were unsubstantiated rumors of a double-side eagle, but it's only been a rumor and I've been fairly positively assured (told) that it doesn't exist.
Flat sides were a Fox Ridge Custom Shop option and you will occasionally find them in both the front pin and middle pin (easy open) variety
And, that being said, another option was case hardening. Which I happen to like the look of so you get to see a pic here.