Home » General Conversation » Gun Talk » G1 Contender, not able to cock
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| Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34094 is a reply to message #34093] |
Wed, 19 November 2014 18:26   |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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How long have you had the gun, and have you messed with the trigger adjustments screws? I know already that nobody has the over-travel (the one in the trigger guard behind the hammer) more interested in the one under the front of the trigger. And stop with that double and triple trigger pulls when the hammer is down. Only ONE time do you ever even think of pulling the trigger, and that's when the hammer is cocked and locked back and you're on target.
Jim
[Updated on: Wed, 19 November 2014 18:56] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34097 is a reply to message #34096] |
Wed, 19 November 2014 19:34 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Obviously used, G-1's haven 't been made for 13 years. At the front of the trigger is a tiny set screw as you look up. Turn it counter-clockwise about a half-turn. It should take a 1/16th inch SAE allen-wrench. You should see the trigger,itself, move forward. Somone set the trigger for hair-trigger plus, in other words the sear never gets set except by accident. You DRY-FIRE these by cocking the action keeping your mitts OFF the hammer, and just pull the trigger. ONCE and you'll have to re-cock the trigger guard for every time you want to dry fire. You can also set the trigger engagement without ever having to cock the hammer back. That other screw takes up over-travel, you don't want it to go very far more back after the sear trips and the hammer drops, that's just more movement your gun will have to throw you off target. I did notice that your firing pin selector lever was where it should have been, sitting in the center position on "safe"
Jim
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| Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34148 is a reply to message #34140] |
Sat, 22 November 2014 09:07 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Tiger,
In this test, NEVER touch the trigger.
1) remove the barrel, and leave it off. If you have a manual safety (you do) engage it--set your lever in the center position.
2) attempt to cock your hammer, It should cock, assuming you never pulled or even touched the trigger when you opened your action to remove the barrel.
3. even IF the hammer cocked, pull back and up the trigger guard spur, don't be a wuss when pulling it back and up. The hammer (if cocked) should DROP.
4. attempt to cock the hammer, it should cock.
5. Repeat 3 and 4. Do it 10 times and count how many times the hammer cocked. Also each time keep track of how many of those times the safety lever extension DIDN'T hit the frame's breech face when the hammer dropped. There *should be* a space between them. Report back your results. Leave the barrel OFF if the hammer doesn't "cock".
Jim
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| Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34376 is a reply to message #34374] |
Wed, 03 December 2014 20:07 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Top Contributor |
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Tiger,
If I counted right, 13 attempts failed to cock. I did see that it fell or let down to the Hammer Block safety (as it should). How did you get it to cock the first time (You started at full cock)? Immediately after removing the barrel?
At any rate, It was as I was afraid of. Something internally wrong, Perhaps the sear and hammer notch were filed/ground/stoned by the previous owner. But let's rule out broken pieces/junk/crud. Why I asked you to leave the barrel off. Have ready a can of WD-40 or similar, and also a can of starting fluid (diesel starter) (read ETHER). You'll need to do this outside. Hold the gun by the grip as normal, and douche the HELL out of the frame (inside) through the opening in front of the hammer area. Right after a good liberal spray, hold it like it would be barrel down if it was mounted, and watch what flows out. If you do it over an old unwanted sheet or pillow case, let the fluid drip and flow out on it to catch any "chunks"/springs, etc. Hold it and let it flow pout until it looks like it's pretty well flowed out, then douche the hell out of that same area with the ether. Try not to breathe in the fumes, or you'll be taking an unplanned nap. Give it another good shot of ether and shake it around while it's draining out. Basically try and shake everything in there loose and out, even what should be there. If you see anything solid flow out/fall out gather them up for a pix. When cleaned out, repeat the test maybe three/four times.
Failure again, and we'll start looking at the internal pieces, so again leave the barrel off.
Alternative: Loosen the screw at the back of the trigger guard, remove the screw and the spring. Tap the pin out that goes through the frame above the trigger. remove the trigger guard from the frame. Douche it all with the WD and ether; both the trigger guard and what's left of the frame. Look for and grab any chunks/pieces/springs/screws/etc that fall or flush out. Have a pin punch the size of that pivot pin you'll tap out, and keep it close, You'll need it to put it back together. You should only have to keep track of three parts: Rear screw and it's spring, pivot pin. The pivot pin is 1/8th", so that's the pin punch you'll need. That pin comes out easier if the guard and hammer are both cocked, you'll feel it rotate or rock on the pin real easy.
Jim
[Updated on: Thu, 04 December 2014 01:11] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34409 is a reply to message #34408] |
Fri, 05 December 2014 11:59 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Lubricating is the last step. Ether and brake cleaner flushes every minute particle of "oil", squeeky clean. And for now that's what he needs. There's a good chance he'll need parts replacement, and that better to do while everything is clean so it's not attracting dust, lint, dog hair, etc. Just Before replacing the trigger guard is the best time to do the lube. I like the old gunslick graphite, which doesn't stiffen up in the cold winter temps., nor so apt to trap "dust, etc. to make "crud". Some moly and teflon lubes do a decent job too. For now, though we need to see if any chunks from something that broke float out, or a loose spring, etc. hanging the moving parts up. Getting the hammer to cock is only half the battle, the heammer needs to fall all the way to even hit a firing pin once it reliably cocks. If he does the alternative, He'd of had to have removed the grip to get the trigger guard out, it's in the way of removing the screw and spring.
Jim
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