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Questions [message #21970] Wed, 01 May 2013 11:27 Go to next message
mrmurl is currently offline  mrmurl
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I just the other day picked up a rough model 63 Winchester, semi-automatic rifle. This rifle is really rough, it really looks like the muzzle to about 8' back had ashes on it, but the bore doesn't look too bad. The forearm was cracked in two places lengthwise. I have taken the wood off of the rifle and have sanded it down with 150 paper and still can not get the oil stains off or should I say out of the wood. I know this will never be a collector piece, but did want to clean it up some and maybe carry in my truck. I glued the cracks in the forearm and they seem to be strong. The take down action was so gummed up with what I think is WD40 that I had to really work to get it apart. Someone had drilled and tapped the receiver and barrel for scope bases. I have broken two hardened screwdriver bits trying to get the bases off, so have resigned to leave them in place and put a cheap scope on the gun. I have not been able to find a schematic of the rifle on line and need one. I am going to use steel wool and oil on the barrel and just try to get the worst of the rust and pitting off. In other words just clean it up and see how well it shoots. Any suggestions and help would be appreciated.

Question #1; Any suggestions on how to get the oil stain out of the walnut?
Question #2; Any better way to get the rust out the metal than just rub it out?
Question #3; Any idea where to find a schematic of the gun?


Mr. Murl

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Molan Labe

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Re: Questions [message #21971 is a reply to message #21970] Wed, 01 May 2013 13:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Doyle is currently offline  Doyle
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For number 1, you could try soaking the whole thing in mineral spirits. It might not leech out all the oil but it would disburse it. After doing that, I would let it air dry for several weeks before attempting to refinish.
Re: Questions [message #21973 is a reply to message #21971] Wed, 01 May 2013 14:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Crubear is currently offline  Crubear
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Question Not asked: Getting the scope base off. You could try heating the screws (not red hot, but hot) - some bonding agents will let go under heat.

Question #2; Any better way to get the rust out the metal than just rub it out? First, try some Hoppe's and a rag for light rust. Hoppe's and 0000 steel wool for heavy. This will not harm factory bluing. You will need to treat where the rust was in some way or always keep it well oiled. Some of the CLP products do a good job.


Honestly, I have all the barrels I want or could ever need..... wait, look, there's another!!
Re: Questions [message #21974 is a reply to message #21973] Wed, 01 May 2013 18:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kc2htv is currently offline  kc2htv
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Mr. Murl Question: How to remove rust without removing all the finish on blued or browned barrels and receivers. Ans. Never-dull and lots of elbow grease... Works great...
Question: Manual/schematics needed... Send me your email address and I will send you a PDF copy of same...
Rick J.


The barter system is alive and well, but the learning curve can be painful.

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Re: Questions [message #21977 is a reply to message #21974] Thu, 02 May 2013 14:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
gemihur is currently offline  gemihur
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...as for drawings, it looks like $1.29 gets 'em as a pdf. from a bunch of sources but they are not to be found at the sites I normally get the exploded views, sorry.
Jimmy
Cool


Think twice...shoot once.
Re: Questions [message #21979 is a reply to message #21977] Thu, 02 May 2013 18:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cajuntec is currently offline  cajuntec
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http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Winchester-33573/R ifles-42602/63-40325.htm

All the best,
Glenn


If at first you don't succeed... buy newer / better equipment!
Re: Questions [message #21983 is a reply to message #21979] Fri, 03 May 2013 09:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rchatting is currently offline  rchatting
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Registered: August 2011
Location: Middle Georgia
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For the stock, there are 2 possibilities that I learned while cleaning up old military stocks. You can spray it with easy off oven cleaner and let it soak for a few hours, rinse and repeat. Or you can put it in the oven, on low temp, maybe 200 degrees for a few hours, leave door open if necessary, it will make the oil come out. You will have to take it out every now and then and wipe off what has boiled out. These processes will make the wood look "fuzzy", but the sandpaper will smooth it back out. I have gotten soaked in cosmolene off of more than 1 stock using one or both of these methods. Also, I discovered something called "wood bleach" that you can get it the hardware store and it does about the same thing as easy off. Don't get it on your hands.

As for the blueing as others have said, use fine steel wool and oil. Then once you get it presentable, clean it good with alcohol or carbuerator cleaner(make sure it is oil free) to remove all oil. Then get some of the Birchwood Casey cold blue from Wally world and wipe down the entire barrel and action where you did the work per the instructions. It will even it up and make it look much better.

Good luck with that scope base. The last one I had that issue with, after it broke the screwdriver, I told my friend it was staying because I didn't want to tear it up.
Re: Questions [message #21985 is a reply to message #21983] Fri, 03 May 2013 10:26 Go to previous message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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de-grease/oil with brake parts cleaner. If outside, "ether" (engine quick starter at automotive suppliers) will also work. start high and work down, gravity will help flush it off. Brake parts cleaner is a non-residue cleaner and works excellent for disolving and flushing off oil/grease. Have fun with your project, hope it's a "shooter".
Jim
**brake parts cleaner evaporates fast, so make sure you get at least two cans
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