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| Re: Wanted: Barrel extension or muzzle break to make Contender Carbine [message #26870 is a reply to message #26868] |
Thu, 26 December 2013 12:58   |
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Tracy; not much help here except I do know that that unit has to be permanently attached to the barrel. It has to be such that it can't be removed, in order to make it legal as a Carbine. You should look to a competent gunsmith.
Hope this is of some help.
Mr. Murl
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Molan Labe
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty." - Benjamin Franklin
“Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.” (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer’s hands.) – Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 4 BC – 65 AD
"America will never be destroyed from the outside.
If we falter and lose our freedom, it will be because
we destroyed ourselves."
~ ~ Abraham Lincoln ~ ~
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| Re: Wanted: Barrel extension or muzzle break to make Contender Carbine [message #26873 is a reply to message #26868] |
Thu, 26 December 2013 14:09 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Top Contributor |
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Tracy,
Years ago Choate made a stamped metal barrel extension for the purpose you desire. It required that it be welded (thus permanent) to the barrel. Slotted on the top so you could continue to use the front sight. If I recall correctly, it was around $50.00. They don't make it anymore. When a weld cools, it causes shrinking so the bores got restricted where the welds were done, so while you had a "legal" barrel, accuracy went to #$@&.
David White offers both muzzle brakes and barrel extensions for those wanting to create legal carbine length barrels from their contender and encore pistol barrels. An extension would run 150.00, plus shipping your barrel both directions. Muzzle Brakes run from 150-200, again, plus the shipping two ways.
In figuring your already made outlay for your 14, plus the expense to get either an extension or brake added, you'd have been further ahead all around to have simply purchased a "real" carbine length barrel, either a T/C super 16, or even a custom 16+ from a source like MGM, Ed's (cheaper route for an MGM barrel), etc.
You might be able to get a local machine shop to somehow make and install a brake or extension a little cheaper, or possibly have a machinist friend that would do the work cheaper yet, but have to trust that his "build" is ATF approved and doesn't detract from your barrel's functionality (including accuracy, etc.).
Jim
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| Re: Wanted: Barrel extension or muzzle break to make Contender Carbine [message #26882 is a reply to message #26880] |
Fri, 27 December 2013 00:23 |
nimrodtracy
Messages: 5
Registered: December 2013
Location: United States
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Forum Newbie |
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I have had this contender for a wile as a pistol and now want to put a carbine buttstock on it. To be legal barrels have to be 16" so I am looking for a cheep way of doing this. I do understand they have to be attached in a permanent fashion.
Here is a reply I got from another form and I might give it a try, what do you guys think?
"I assume this is a 14" heavy barrel. I just extended a 14" SS barrel using a piece of 7/8" SS tubing .035" wall thickness. I bought a 12" piece from McMaster Carr for $14 or less. I cut this into 2 6" pieces and cleaned up the ends. My barrel miked .810 on the muzzle end and the tubing miked .805 inside. Using a piece of threaded rod 3/8" with nuts and washers on each end I pulled the tubing onto the barrel until it covered the sight screw holes. I then buffed the SS with fine scotch brite until it matched the barrel. Removal will require machine work as it is extremely tight. You need to use the appropriate size threaded rod to fit inside the barrel. Hope this helps."
It is not about what you kill, it is about the hunt....
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| Re: Wanted: Barrel extension or muzzle break to make Contender Carbine [message #26888 is a reply to message #26887] |
Fri, 27 December 2013 09:08 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Top Contributor |
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Sorry, but freezing the tube won't loosen it, it'd make it tighter, metal shrinks as it get colder, expands as it warms. With a .005 interferance fit it may loosen enough by heating it with a propane torch to get it to come loose, but you'd have to heat the tube quicker than the heat transfer to the barrel. It's common to heat a "frozen" lug nut or brake drum to aid removal. With a 12 thousandths interference fit, it requires roughly 300 TONS of force and lube to press a bearing on a railroad axle. However, heat the bearing to ~1000 degrees and chill the shaft with liquid nitrogen, and it'll simply "drop on".
My understanding is White's barrel stubs, extensions, and brakes are interference fit pressed fits, although Idon't know just how much interference he uses, but I don't think they are pinned, and accepted by ATF. I don't know if I asked him, if he'd share that with me.
In the reply you got on the other forum the poster used a 3/8 threaded rod, that's .375 in diameter, so could only be used on a fairly large bore, maybe not even fit through a 375 JDJ bore (without ome serious hammering). With a smaller bore, you'd need a smaller diameter rod, and may tax the tensile limit of the rod.
Crubear's reference to the Ross brake and pinned looks to be the least expenisive route,,and attracttively feasible.
Jim
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