Home » General Conversation » DIY Gunsmithing » Front Sight
| Front Sight [message #35689] |
Tue, 13 January 2015 12:54  |
Okiewind
Messages: 16
Registered: January 2015
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Forum Newbie |
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Hey to everybody! Glad I found this sight!
I have a barrel with the front sight bead knocked off. Where can I get the ivory beaded front sight at the correct height for a factory TC 30/-06 barrel? Also, does it matter which way you take it out of the dovetail?
Thanks!
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| Re: Front Sight [message #35759 is a reply to message #35756] |
Fri, 16 January 2015 09:18  |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Top Contributor |
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I've got three white bead front sights with the 3/8's dovetail on the bottom. Two are a different height, and have a screw retaining the blade. The third is one piece, and a much smaller white bead marked 26M on the bottom of the dovetail. Take yours out and caliper the height from the top of the blade to the bottom of the dovetail. also the width; one is .232, the other 2 are ~.250. Seems top me I may have several more, have to do some more digging.
They aren't ivory bead, they're white plastic, unknown manuf.
Jim
[Updated on: Fri, 16 January 2015 09:20] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Front Sight [message #35761 is a reply to message #35756] |
Fri, 16 January 2015 10:15 |
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cajuntec
Messages: 1251
Registered: November 2009
Location: Williamsburg, VA
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Top Contributor
Forum Admin |
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rchatting wrote on Fri, 16 January 2015 06:41
How do you know which way is left and right? Is that from the shooters vantage point? Or from the muzzle end?
Thanks.
Shooters vantage point. With the muzzle pointed downrange, holding it in your hand the way you normally do to shoot, identify left and right sides of the weapon or barrel you are working on. Now drive out left to right, and drive in right to left.
All the best,
Glenn
If at first you don't succeed... buy newer / better equipment!
[Updated on: Fri, 16 January 2015 10:15] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Front Sight [message #35764 is a reply to message #35761] |
Fri, 16 January 2015 12:12 |
jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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Top Contributor |
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The sight blad inserts on the 77-83 contender front sights are Milled: a rotary tool moved across the sight left to right, same with the dovetail barrel locks since 1967 on the bottom of contender barrels. Those locks used to be square on all 4 corners. They finally changed that and put beveled corners to make them easier to put in right to left, left to right, doesn't matter. Once "centered" they stake it it (originally pin punch) Later ones are a tad wider so fit tighter even in the older barrels. Took them well over 20 years to smarten up.
Now, weapons like the 1911 and glocks, etc. are first milled, then broach cut to widen the one side (usually right). As it goes in it gets real tight as it approaches center. Generally those are more like a fixed sight. You can take them out and replace them with an adjustable sight like a Bomar, and have easily adjustable rears to sight the weapon in, otherwise you're stuck pretty much with "kentucky windage". Pushers for those (for removal and installation run 300 and up as high as almost 700.00). On the ramp sights with dovetailed slots for the inserts, the pusher is less than 100 (last I looked at mid-way), they'll work with almost any ramp type front sight.
Unless your'e going to replace the sight blade with a different one (like from williams or a lyman 17, and want to completely remove the contender long ramp front sight completely and put in filler screws, just tap it back enough (either way) to access the screw underneath the blade to remove the front screw. Once removed, put the sight in a small zip-lock baggie and label the bag the chambering of the barrel you took it off, there's three blade heights depending on trajectory of the round.
Most of the long ramp style front's from 78 to 83 are checkered on top.
You could get the next style sight that they still use (looks like a stair-case and is much shorter) that has slots on the side and came with a hood that would slide in. Those, like the unhooded have three blade heights that replace by unscrewing the sight, drop the blade out the bottom, and slip in the taller or shorter one, and screw it back down. The "kit" came with all three blades and the base and hood plus two mount screws. You can also get hoods that fit the side slots on those 78-83 Contender front sights. I must have half-dozen or so in my parts box, same with the ramps, and blade inserts.
The first pix is 4 of the 78-83 ramp fronts, the bottom with front blade removed. Note that two are drifted right to varying degree, and the third with blade in the dovetail is driven left.
The second is a right driven taller blade on the right, just a blade in the center, and the left is a reverse driven blade. Also note that they still fit spun around. The front *should* have a small taper, the rear rounded. Many people modified them and re-touched up where they filed with cold blue. Finding not screwed-up ones is almost impossible. Considering that a weaver is really cheap, many remove rears just to sell for 20-95.00 for the rear sight alone. Fronts generally around 20, except these long ramped ones, the rapers for 60 or better, the more reasonable ones for 20 or a little over. Still have to make sure you get the right blade height, and someone didn't file the hell out if it just so he could get his gun sighted in with the a blindly chosen rear.
[Updated on: Sat, 17 January 2015 13:28] Report message to a moderator |
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