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contender trigger pivot pin [message #9679] Sun, 11 March 2012 21:14 Go to next message
dave22250 is currently offline  dave22250
Messages: 160
Registered: January 2012
Location: S.W.Pa.
Junior Member
Anybody ever have the pivot pin break on them,I just replace one that broke and two times out It broke again and I did'nt shoot a lot or rounds thru it Its a 223 so its not no big cartridge that I am shooting and not a hot load anyone have this happen.
Re: contender trigger pivot pin [message #9698 is a reply to message #9679] Mon, 12 March 2012 15:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Crubear is currently offline  Crubear
Messages: 1798
Registered: March 2010
Location: NW Georgia
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I had one break on me, TC replaced it. The only thing I could ever come up with was I didn't have the over travel screw set and pulling the trigger back somehow put stress on the pin. Possibly pulling back on the trigger when I opened the frame.

Honestly, I have all the barrels I want or could ever need..... wait, look, there's another!!
Re: contender trigger pivot pin [message #9701 is a reply to message #9698] Mon, 12 March 2012 17:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
dave22250 is currently offline  dave22250
Messages: 160
Registered: January 2012
Location: S.W.Pa.
Junior Member
WellI called TC they did'nt have any explanation for it, I just replaced in about 3 weeks ago and it broke 1st time out,TC says they don'have any in stock, I bought the last one from a gun shop I guess I'll get another and try again.
Re: contender trigger pivot pin [message #38493 is a reply to message #9701] Mon, 25 May 2015 19:05 Go to previous message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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The trigger guard hinge pin on the earliest frame and even when the made the trigger guard change, if it pivoted in the front (Read Non-easy open), was pretty heavy. 195,000 and later, or converted frames with the easy open trigger guards have a roll pin in about the same sized hole, and a much smaller pin (that you remove to take the trigger guard group out) is smaller (to fit) and also has a "dish" in the center, presumably to center in the trigger and maybe keep it in, since the forend no longer makes surte that it doesn't slide all the way out. I've found them much harder to remove. I'd guess thsat dish poses a weak spot where the trigger is. Pulling toom hard (like trying to get the gun to fire when the overtravel screw is set in too far may be the culprit. Really griefing on the spur to break loose a tight locking bolt(s) may be another source. Or simply, there was a flaw in the pin. I would *think* that the roll pin sleeve may also be getting "bent" when the pin takes a dump, you may want to replace it as well. That being bent would throw the trigger pivot a little out of wack.

Triggers on the G-1 are incredibly smooth and quite "light", so really shouldn't take much to get a nice squeeze for release. Normal out of the box should be around 2 1/2#. NOTHING should ever need ground/filed/stoned. And doing so will actually give an inferior trigger pull, if you get MORE metal-metal engagement. "AS CAST" will usually yield tiny spot or spots engagement. As the parts wear, they'll set themselves in. wear in so-to-speak.
Front pivot is a little over 5/32's pin; E-O is under an 1/8th, but drives out with a 3/32nds pin punch. The roll pin sleeve is in the trigger guard, keeps the trigger in while the pin is out. Trigger pin in the non-easy opens is a solid pin, no roll pin sleeve.
Jim
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