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Bipods [message #35161] Mon, 29 December 2014 15:16 Go to next message
Ricochet is currently offline  Ricochet
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Registered: December 2014
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Is there anything that you have to do to Encores or Contenders to get them to shoot with a bipod attached? I have tried my Harris bipod on two Contenders and an Encore and accuracy went to pot on all of them. I can live without the bipod but would like to use it since I got it. Thanks
Re: Bipods [message #35172 is a reply to message #35161] Mon, 29 December 2014 18:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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where are you mounting it? Barrel band? screwed to forend? I use mine on my contenders. 10-32 thread just like barrel locks. I shortened one stud for each forend i have, super 14, 16 and 21 or 23. I use that for the front screw in each forend, one dedicated to each forend as it's front screw. Never had an issue with accuracy taking a dump. I do countersink a drilled out nut (3/16's bit to remove the thread. Snugged down it's metal to metal from bipod all the way to the barrel, been doing that since 1981. They come in sets, a wood screw one for the back, the 10-32 stud and nut for forends. I just chuck the back wood screw threaded one.
Jim
Re: Bipods [message #35177 is a reply to message #35172] Mon, 29 December 2014 19:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ricochet is currently offline  Ricochet
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I am just mounting it to the sling stud on the front with the spreader gripper thing on the bipod. ( Dont know the name of it) To be honest, I thought that was how you mounted them. So you are mounting them through the outermost forend screw hole? Not getting the drilled out nut part. How does that work? Sorry for the questions but I would sure like to use the bipod if possible. I guess that mounting it on the sling stud screw out toward the end of the barrel may be putting pressure on the barrel from the forend and messing with accuracy?
Re: Bipods [message #35179 is a reply to message #35177] Mon, 29 December 2014 19:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lepcur is currently offline  lepcur
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Hey Bob, I always check for clearance between forend and barrel with a business card, most of t/cs forends will make contact other than the mounting screws somewhere along the forend. If you take a dowel and sandpaper and open it up a little you'll relieve that pressure your talking about. That's what works for me. Have a good1. Mike
Re: Bipods [message #35180 is a reply to message #35179] Mon, 29 December 2014 20:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ricochet is currently offline  Ricochet
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Thanks Mike, I will give it a try!
Re: Bipods [message #35192 is a reply to message #35180] Tue, 30 December 2014 01:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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"Not getting the drilled out nut part" The old "uncle Mikes's (Mikes of oregon) had a round serrated nut that was pit in a coun tesunk hole in the barrel channel of most rifles. I drilled the threads out som it was no longer a nut. Countersunk the forward screw mounting hole enough so that the flat part of the nut (other side is domed) was flush with the bottom of the forend. The thread is 10-32, so a 3/16ths drill bit took out all the threads inside that nut. The stud's threads (shortened) screws into the forward barrel lock. Epoxied into the countersunk hole, the stud is the defacto screw for the front of the forend. The expoxied nut (with no threads) stays in the forend permanantly. Get the generic two stud rifle set made for rifles with no sling swivel studs The one for the buttstock part is a wood screw thread, the front is a 10-32 screw thread and includes the nut for up in the barrel channel to clip your quick connect sling swivel or bipod. Just shorten to fit. hacksaw, file champher so the thread has a good start for the barrel lock. Are You shooting these as rifles? The only forends I know that have sling swivel studs already mounted are the carbine/rifle contender forends. I only use super 14 forends. I don't use the ones on the carbine forends for a bipod, that's the one that the sling attaches to. The front screw is where my bipod stud is mounted on the rifle setups and also pistol. I don't sling pistols, I holster them.
Jim
Re: Bipods [message #35195 is a reply to message #35192] Tue, 30 December 2014 07:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Crubear is currently offline  Crubear
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index.php?t=getfile&id=5860&private=0

Harris Bipod Adapter #4 worked to mount Contender barrels Waaaaay back when - they also worked on the Encore. I have found that these can be used like a barrel tuner as well. I had an average Hornet barrel that started shooting phenomenally after I put it on
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Honestly, I have all the barrels I want or could ever need..... wait, look, there's another!!
Re: Bipods [message #35200 is a reply to message #35195] Tue, 30 December 2014 11:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/slings-sling-s wivels/sling-swivel-studs/uncle-mike-s-sling-swivel-stud-kit -prod863.aspx

I found this at brownells. Won't have to buy a kit, I can get what I need in 12 packs and not have to chuck anything. Look at the 4th down on the list ( 5/8ths long studs), and also the 10th for the domed nuts (click on pix, then the side arrows for different views. These would be for Contender 14" front screw location. They also make a clamp (side) for different diameter barrels. Just the stud, not a bipod adapter.
Jim
Re: Bipods [message #35210 is a reply to message #35200] Tue, 30 December 2014 16:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ricochet is currently offline  Ricochet
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Ok, I get what you are saying now with the studs. I am looking at that clamp adapter picture Crubear posted, I am not understanding how pressure from the forend would affect accuracy and this clamp would not. Will pressure further out on the barrel than the forend reaches have less affect or do you just play with different spots to find a "sweet spot"? I appreciate your guys' help.
Re: Bipods [message #35212 is a reply to message #35210] Tue, 30 December 2014 16:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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The last, search for sweet spot in harmonics. The normal clamp type from UM's would do the same as the adapter, just one clamp screw to worry about.
Jim
Re: Bipods [message #35230 is a reply to message #35212] Tue, 30 December 2014 21:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Crubear is currently offline  Crubear
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I have used the longer screw that James showed above to replace a forend screw (nylon spacer to take up the extra gap), worked extremely well with the 14" Contender barrels.

My experience has been to get the weight of the barrel resting on the forend, with the screws being the pressure points. Putting the bipod on the sling stud puts the weight at the front of the forend and pulling down on the screws. Not scientific, but it's been borne out time after time. Get the weight off the screws and groups start to widen, put the weight on the screws and things tighten up.


Honestly, I have all the barrels I want or could ever need..... wait, look, there's another!!
Re: Bipods [message #35237 is a reply to message #35230] Wed, 31 December 2014 01:09 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
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Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
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The holes (cavity on the bottom) is too small for the domed nut. I drill it out a little with 23/64's drill bit. That's what the small diameter is less the knurled serrations. Then tap it in until it's flush. Do the drilling a little at a time, when it's flat top is flush with the surface tap it back out from the barrel channel side. Put epoxy in the hole, then tap that nut back in, re-alinging the spines with the grooves left from tapping in earlier. The bottom of the hole is "V" shaped like the end of the drill bit. The rounded dome hits the bottom, and there's a little gap in the corners for the epoxy to adhere to both the wood/composite and metal nut. (clean real good with rubbing alcohol to get all oil off). Just before that last little tap, put a drop of thin oil in the threads so the epoxy doesn't adhere in there.
Jim

[Updated on: Wed, 31 December 2014 01:10]

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