Home » General Conversation » Product and Vendor Feedback » Bellm Kits (Encore and G2)
| Bellm Kits [message #13044] |
Thu, 16 August 2012 07:58  |
rchatting
Messages: 499
Registered: August 2011
Location: Middle Georgia
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Forum Regular |
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Just got the 1x oversize pin for the G2/contender. According to Bellm's webpage, it will fit almost all without any reaming/fitting. Well, not on mine. I think I will have to beat mine in with a hammer to get it in my G2 or my contender. Maybe mine are just tight enough from the factory. I really don't want to ream the holes out bigger, I just wanted it to be a bit tighter. I may revisit this later.
I also got the #3 trigger springs for my G2 and Encore. Put in the Encore, made a big difference. Dropped it from about 4# to 3#. That is a more significant difference than I thought it would be.
As for the G2, I installed the spring and it wasn't acting right. I went to Bellm's page and it said that some of the springs were too long at the top for the G2 and were hitting the receiver. They also said that they had corrected the problem and were now sending out springs cut to fit both G2 and Encore. Well, neither of the springs were short enough for my G2 as both were hitting the receiver. I broke out the dremel and cut maybe 1/16" off of the top of the spring and voila. The G2 now has about a 3# pull. I had had a few light strikes in the G2 so I put in a stiffer hammer spring. I could tell the G2 had a lighter hammer spring before than my Encore (which has never had a light strike).
I also got the stiffer barrel bolt springs and put them in. I wasn't having lockup issues, but it is suppose to improve consistency.
I did learn that if you put the springs in a magnetic bowl, they become magnetized and it then becomes difficult to get the springs to stay in place while you reassemble the frames. The springs keep sticking to your tools.
Well, got to go to the range and see if the better triggers help my shooting or not...
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| Re: Bellm Kits [message #13484 is a reply to message #13481] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 10:23  |
kimbo
Messages: 286
Registered: October 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
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Forum Regular |
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Rich, I had a similar experience as you (i.e. Photos section-Predator series rifle 22-250). Taken at my earlier thread. To make a long story short. I bought this predator series rifle and found out that all the "guts" were heavily modified with Bellms springs. Everything was extremely stiff (i.e. the barrel, the trigger hammer and the release). The trigger springs were nice. I also received a bag full of springs from the previous owner which were the OEM TC parts. I didn't like the overall stiffness with the spring change over. So I tore the gun down to the bone, switched out all the springs back to the TC OEM springs with exception to the bells trigger springs. The only other thing I did was lapped and slight grind to the trigger engagement parts. I checked all angles after rework on the optical comparator to make sure that the mods were in spec. with original angles. I then put everything back together and greased all hinge points and springs with a light coating of synthetic mobil 1 friction bearing grease (clear). The gun is absolutely crisp with a glassy smooth break (no creep). As for the hinge pin mod (over size pins), I'm not a big fan of this modification. The hinge pin from the factory should be adequate for its "intended" use. This is not a "friction bearing" surface, however it is a critical dimension that holds the barrel to the receiver fast. In general that hole dimension is usually drilled, reamed and polished to a high degree. My guess is that, TC generally fits that dimension on the (-)minus side of the tolerance and then the hinge pin at nominal or less to mate the part. Now, thats not to say that that hole dimension could have been hit with a "dull" drill and walked off center. This can happen at the place of manufacturer. This is why they "SHOULD" have an in-process inspection with at minimum doing a "go, no/go" test, either with a gage pin or a special jig designed to measure the i.d. of the frame and the o.d. of the hinge pin. Also important is the concentricity of that hole directly thru frame as it is cross drilled. In other words, perpindicular to the frame. These dimensions could and should be measured by the end user especially if your noticing problems with "lock up" and/or "opening" of the action. As you will see also in my previous PHOTO thread. The mating forearm piece is also a crucial factor in the mating 3 pieces (i.e. frame, barrel and forearm), all together at the point of attachment. Sometimes that forearm piece can run oversize by the ears as it mates up to the frame due to expansion during the injection molding process. I had this problem on my 12 ga. 28" SS PH where the barrel didn't lock up well and/or was hard to open. I found the problem after assembly. This is a quick tip for any model which has a forearm piece attached. After final assembly of your gun, turn the gun upside down and look at the forearm at the point of attachment as it relates to the hinging action (i.e. area between the ears of the forearm and the frame. You should be able to stick a feeler gage, roughly under .005" on either side of that slot. If you can't and your having lock up problems, then obviously you have a problem assuming that the forearm was installed correctly. Not to worry, as you will see in my previous thread. Assuming that your ear dimensions are off, first run a small straight edge across the ears or take your calipers and take several reading across that surface. If they are not consistent, take a file to it and grind them down slightly to fit, checking frequently that is. Remember, there is no need to crank on any "one or all" screws at any given location. Generally turn clockwise til tight and then a 1/4 to 1/2 half turn MAX afterwards. If a torque spec. is called out by the manufacturer, then they do make those type of tools to measure (i.e. Starrett, Mitutoyo, B&S etc.).
At the end of the day though, I do agree with your last statement - quote above "You still have to do some gunsmithing to tune the springs to your individual gun and swap thing around, but you can find a happy median". This is a very true statement, at the end of the day - you don't know where these parts have been "sourced" and/or the "controls (i.e. tolerances, heat treat, fit, form, function, design and revision changes applicable to same model but different dates) that have been put in place by the "component" manufacturers. I used to work in a design firm that would source parts from all over the world. In complex designs, you my have over 500 parts that go in a particular model. All of which have to work at the end of the day. Needless to say, "Engineering design is nice on a CAD or 3D solid model, but that doesn't always mean that the parts your getting have the same intent"!! LOL  I'm glad to see that there are a lot more "thought" related questions and comments coming out. It truly shows that members are not only trying to get good grouping but also seeking "true" CAPA - Corrective and Preventative Action. Food for thought! Kimbo
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| Re: Bellm Kits [message #17158 is a reply to message #13484] |
Tue, 18 December 2012 01:01 |
jingles
Messages: 17
Registered: December 2012
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Forum Newbie |
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Hi Rchatting You mention that you had accuracy problems with the 308 barrel. I have recently purchased the 308 and have had alot of frustration trying to make it shoot straight. You figure that adding the bellem pin and bolt spring brought it into line. My gun seems to lock up good and there is no detectable slop with the pin. That being said I have orderd the pin and breech face shim kit. I am having to trim brass after shooting it only once. I am told this is not rite.
/Did you put the pin in yourself? How hard was it.
Tim
telecaster
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