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Re: G1 Contender, not able to cock [message #34376 is a reply to message #34374] Wed, 03 December 2014 20:07 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
jamesgammel is currently offline  jamesgammel
Messages: 1708
Registered: August 2012
Location: Lovell, Wyoming
Top Contributor
Tiger,
If I counted right, 13 attempts failed to cock. I did see that it fell or let down to the Hammer Block safety (as it should). How did you get it to cock the first time (You started at full cock)? Immediately after removing the barrel?
At any rate, It was as I was afraid of. Something internally wrong, Perhaps the sear and hammer notch were filed/ground/stoned by the previous owner. But let's rule out broken pieces/junk/crud. Why I asked you to leave the barrel off. Have ready a can of WD-40 or similar, and also a can of starting fluid (diesel starter) (read ETHER). You'll need to do this outside. Hold the gun by the grip as normal, and douche the HELL out of the frame (inside) through the opening in front of the hammer area. Right after a good liberal spray, hold it like it would be barrel down if it was mounted, and watch what flows out. If you do it over an old unwanted sheet or pillow case, let the fluid drip and flow out on it to catch any "chunks"/springs, etc. Hold it and let it flow pout until it looks like it's pretty well flowed out, then douche the hell out of that same area with the ether. Try not to breathe in the fumes, or you'll be taking an unplanned nap. Give it another good shot of ether and shake it around while it's draining out. Basically try and shake everything in there loose and out, even what should be there. If you see anything solid flow out/fall out gather them up for a pix. When cleaned out, repeat the test maybe three/four times.
Failure again, and we'll start looking at the internal pieces, so again leave the barrel off.
Alternative: Loosen the screw at the back of the trigger guard, remove the screw and the spring. Tap the pin out that goes through the frame above the trigger. remove the trigger guard from the frame. Douche it all with the WD and ether; both the trigger guard and what's left of the frame. Look for and grab any chunks/pieces/springs/screws/etc that fall or flush out. Have a pin punch the size of that pivot pin you'll tap out, and keep it close, You'll need it to put it back together. You should only have to keep track of three parts: Rear screw and it's spring, pivot pin. The pivot pin is 1/8th", so that's the pin punch you'll need. That pin comes out easier if the guard and hammer are both cocked, you'll feel it rotate or rock on the pin real easy.
Jim

[Updated on: Thu, 04 December 2014 01:11]

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